Engineered Hardwood Installation Information

ENGINEERED HARDWOOD FLOORS
Glue, Staple Or Nail Down Installation

Columbia Engineered Hardwood Floors can be installed over most subfloors, and are engineered to be dimensionally stable, making them suitable for installation over all grade levels. See all information and installation guidelines below.

ATTENTION � INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITY
Inspect ALL materials carefully BEFORE installation. Wood is a natural product containing natural characteristics such as natural variations in color, tone and graining. Some variation in color is to be expected in a natural wood floor. Even though our product goes through many inspections before it leaves the plant, it is the customer�s and the installer�s responsibility for final inspection prior to installation. Warranties DO NOT cover materials with visible defects once they are installed.

TOOLS
Basic tools and accessories: broom or vacuum, chalk line, tapping block, Columbia Flooring Cleaner, hand or electric jam saw, miter saw, moisture meter, safety glasses, straight edge, table saw, tape measure, 3M Blue Tape, square, utility knife, pry bar, wedges, mineral spirits . Use Columbia�s Urethane Wood Flooring Adhesive with our Columbia Flooring Urethane Remover or Columbia�s Gator Glue�, all with the appropriate Columbia�s trowels. See trowel recommendation under step 2 of glue down installation. Use a Bostitch Floor Runner (LHF97125 - 2 or LHF3297 � 2) with 20 gauge 1� or 1 �� staple) or a Power Nailer #200 or #250 for nailing with a 1�, 1-1/4�or 1-1/2� power cleat. (Note: you must use a 3/8� or �� adapter as appropriate).

Caution: Improper use of a power nailer can mark the surface of the flooring

JOBSITE CONDITIONS
It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the job site subfloor and job site conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood floor installation. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for wood failure
resulting from or connected with subfloor, subsurface, job site damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed. All substrates must be clean, dry, structurally sound, and level.

SUBFLOOR PREPARATION AND RECOMMENDATIONS FOR
ALL INSTALLATIONS

Concrete Subfloors
New concrete slabs require a minimum of 60 days drying time
before covering them with a wood floor. (Must be fully cured)

Lightweight concrete

Lightweight concrete that has a dry density of 100 pounds or less per cubic foot is not suitable for engineered wood floors. Many products have been developed as self-leveling toppings or floor underlayments. These include cellular concrete, resin-reinforced
cement underlayments, and gypsum -based materials. Although some of these products may have the necessary qualifications of underlayment for wood flooring installations, others do not.

To test for lightweight concrete, scrape a coin or key across the
surface of the subfloor. If the surface powders easily or has a
dry density of l00 pounds or less per cubic foot, do not install this
Engineered Wood floor.

Concrete subfloors must be dry, smooth (level within 3/16 � in a 10 foot. Radius � 1/8 � in 6 �) and free of structural defects. Hand scrape or sand with a 20-grit #3-1/2 open face paper to remove loose, flaky concrete. Grinding high spots in concrete is recommended over using filling compounds. However if a filling/leveling compound is used, it must be of a Portland base compound (min. 3,000 p.s.i.) with a high compressive strength.
Concrete must be free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, wax, grease, dirt, sealers, and curing compounds. These may be removed chemically or mechanically, but do not use solvent based strippers under any circumstances. The use of residual solvents can prohibit the satisfactory bond of flooring adhesives.
It is important to ensure a proper bond between the adhesive and the concrete, and planks or strips. Columbia hardwood flooring may be installed on grade, above grade, as well as below grade where moisture conditions do not exist.

To ensure a long lasting bond, make sure that the perimeter of the foundation has adequate drainage and vapor barrier.

Wood subfloors

Wood subfloors need to be well nailed or secured with screws. Nails should be ring shanks and screws need to be counter sunk. The wood subfloor needs to be structurally sound (meaning subfloors without loose boards, vinyl, tiles, or OSB board or plywood) and dry. They should not exceed 12% moisture prior to installation. If the sub-floor is single layer, less than �� thick, add a single cross layer for strength and stability (minimum 5/16� thick for a total 1� thickness). This is to reduce the possibility of squeaking. Wood sub-floors must be free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, wax, grease, dirt and urethane, varnish etc. Underlayment grade OSB (not the wax side) is also a suitable subfloor. Particleboard is not an acceptable subfloor for staple or nail down installation, but can be used as a subfloor in glue down installations. When installing over existing wood flooring, install at right angles to the existing floor.

Subfloor moisture check

The recommended wood flooring adhesive may be used for above, on, and below grade applications and on all common substrates. On and below grade applications are susceptible to moisture and should be tested for moisture prior to installation in 1 several locations within the installation area. Acceptable conditions for above, on, and below grade applications are:

. Less than 3lbs./1000 sq. ft./24 hrs. on a calcium chloride test.

� No greater than a reading of 4.5 on a Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter (moisture meter).

� Wood Substrates must have a moisture reading of less than 12% when using a Tramex, Delmhorst or equivalent moisture meter.

To correct any subfloor problems concerning moisture, either wait until the subfloor dries to meet specifications or use an appropriate moisture barrier. For more information concerning moisture conditions, contact Columbia�s technical service department.

Subfloors other than wood or concrete

Note: Perimeter glued resilient vinyl and rubber tiles are
unacceptable underlayments and must be removed.

Terrazzo, tile and any other hard surfaces that are dry, structurally sound and level, as described above, are suitable as a subfloor for this Engineered hardwood flooring installation. As above, the surface must be sound, tight and free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, wax, grease and dirt. Terrazzo and ceramic tile must be scuffed to assure adhesion.

WARNING! Do not sand existing resilient tile, sheet flooring,
backing, or felt linings. These products may contain asbestos
fibers that are not readily identifiable. Inhalation of Asbestos dust
can cause Asbestosis or other serious bodily harm. Check with
local, state and federal laws for handling hazardous material
before attempting the removal of these floors.

Radiant Heated Subfloors

Before installing over a radiant heated floor turn off heat and wait
until the floor has reached room temperature. After installing the
floor, gradually return the heat to the previous setting.

Note: When radiant heat is installed in concrete, mortar beds, or
gypsum cement, it is very important to operate the heating
system until these are completely dry before you install your
wood flooring on top. (This can take several weeks. Be patient.)
Operate the heating system until the humidity in the structure
stabilizes to the average level expected for the area in which the
wood floor will be installed. Then allow wood to acclimate to this
humidity level before installation. This will minimize dimensional
changes due to moisture.

For more information on Radiant Heated Subfloors go to
www.NOFMA.org

Caution: The subfloor surface must never exceed 85o F. in temperature.

PREPARATION
Remove all moldings and wall-base and undercut all door casings with a
hand or power jam saw using a scrap piece of flooring as a guide.

�Racking the Floor�
Whether you choose to install the floor with glue, nails, or staples start by using random length planks from the carton or

X by cutting four to five planks in random
lengths, differing by at least 6". As you
continue working across the floor be sure
to maintain the 6" minimum between end
joints on all adjacent rows. (See Figures 1A
& 1B). Never waste material; use the left
over pieces from the fill cuts to start the
next row or to complete a row.

the wood from several cartons to ensure a good grain and
shading mixture throughout the installation.

GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
There are two ways to install when using Columbia�s Urethane Adhesive or Columbia�s Gator Glue (wet lay, meaning to lay directly into wet adhesive, which is the quickest method for installing, and dry-lay, meaning to allow the adhesive to flash or to tack up, which provides a green grab and less opportunity for floor movement prior to curing.) When using the Columbia Urethane Adhesive either method is acceptable. However when using Columbia�s Gator Glue the recommended glue down method, is the wet lay method.

Note: The dry lay (flash) method is recommended in high humidity areas or when installing over existing sheet vinyl or non-porous materials.

Caution: Whether you choose to install using the dry or wet method follow all guidelines. By not adhering to the guidelines, you can void your flooring warranties

Wet Lay Method

Step 1 � Getting Started
Select a starter wall. It is recommended to start the installation along an exterior wall; it's more likely to be straight and square with the room. Measure out from the wall the width of two planks and mark each end of the room and snap your chalk line. Secure a straight edge on the chalk line before you spread your adhesive to ensure alignment, which is a critical part of the installation. This prevents movement of the planks that can cause misalignment.

Step 2 � Spreading The Adhesive
Using the recommended trowel at a 45% angle to get the proper spread of adhesive applied to the subfloor is important, by doing so will produce a proper and permanent bond. Improper bonding can cause loose or hollow spots.

Spread adhesive from the straight edge out about 2 �� (30 in.). Working in small sections is helpful for this method as it will allow you to reach across the adhesive to install the wood flooring without putting any weight on it and will ensure proper transfer of the adhesive to the wood flooring.

Trowel Recommendation
Maximum thickness 9/16 engineered Spread Rate Adhesive Trowel Width Gator CF Glue Urethane
� �
App. 45 sq. ft.
p/gal.
App. 45 sq. ft.
p/gal.
3" or
less 3/16" x 1/4" x 1/2" c.c., V-notch
Greater
than 3� 3/16" x 1/4" x 1/2" c.c., V-notch
Greater
than 3� 3/16" x 3/16" x 3/16" square notch
App. 35 sq. ft.
p/gal. �

Step 3 � Install Your Starter Rows

Install the first row of starter planks with the tongue side of the plank facing the straight edge and secure into position. Pull in tight together at seams and tape with 3M Blue Mask Tape to prevent movement and continue with installation.

Note: The planks along the wall may have to be cut to fit since most walls are not straight, and leaving an expansion space is not necessary with these engineered planks and strips.

Note: Change the trowel every 2000 to 3000 square feet due to wear down of the notches. This assures you always get the proper spread of adhesive.

Step 4 � Job Completion

Once the starter rows are secure spread 2-1/2 feet of
adhesive the length of the room (See Figure 4). Never spread more adhesive than can be covered using the open time recommendation listed in the instructions on the adhesive
label, with Columbia Flooring Urethane Adhesive, or never exceed 45 mins. WithColumbia�s Gator Glue. Never lay planks and strips further than you can comfortably reach.

Place tongue into groove of Planks and press firmly into Adhesive. Never slide planks through adhesive.

Note: Never use laminate straps on hardwood flooring, this can cause damage to the floor.

Test for proper bond by occasionally lifting a board and looking for good coverage (90%), then replace it into the adhesive.
Clean any adhesive off the surface before it cures. With Columbia�s Urethane Adhesive if cured use Columbia�s Urethane Adhesive Remover. Gator Glue can be easily removed with a clean damp cloth or mineral spirits for stubborn spots.

Use 3M Blue Mask Tape to hold planks securely in place as you are installing and continue the process throughout the installation. Use caution when using a rubber mallet to butt material together, as it can burnish the finish and cause marring.

Note: Never work on top of the flooring when installing with the wet lay method

CONDITIONS
Ambient Cold & & Humid Humid Hot & Humid & Dry
25 min.
30 min.
20 min.
95 min.

Dry Lay Method

Step 1 � Getting Started
Start by selecting your starter wall and measure out from the wall 27" when installing 2-1/4� strip flooring and 30� when installing 3" or 5� planks (See Figure 6).

This will allow
adequate working space. Snap chalk line. Figure 6

Step 2 � Spreading The Adhesive
Apply adhesive from the chalk line out 2�. Using the Columbia Flooring Urethane Adhesive allow adhesive to flash as per the instructions. (See Chart 2 below) Secure your starter rows with a straight edge (2�x 4�s). See step 3 in the wet lay method.
Install planks and secure with 3M Blue Mask Tape as you continue throughout your installation. If you must work on top of newly laid flooring, use a kneeling board.

SUBSTRATE
Hot & Ambient Cold & Dry Dry Plywood/OSB
40 min. 35 min. 35 min. 20 min. 25 min. Flash Time
180 min. 180 min. 180 min. 85 min. 100 min. 100 min. Open Time

Vinyl/Non-Porous
45 min. 45 min. 40 min. 30 min. 30 min. Flash Time
200 min. 210 min. 210 min. 110 min. 120 min. 130 min. Open Time

Concrete
30 min. 30 min. 30 min. 20 min. 20 min. Flash Time
160 min. 160 min. 165 min. 75 min. 80 min. Open Time

This chart is for the Columbia Flooring Urethane Adhesive only.
The humidity chart will aid in allowing the appropriate flash time based on the temperature and humidity. When using Columbia Gator Glue wait 30 minutes for the adhesive to flash, and be careful not to exceed the adhesive open time. Do not trowel more adhesive than you can comfortably cover with the flooring in 45 minutes.

Once the remainder of the floor has been installed, go back to the beginning and remove straight edges and s pread adhesive on the remainder of the open subfloor. Allow the adhesive to flash for the appropriate time and lay flooring as instructed.

Remembering that the planks closest to the wall may need to be cut to fit, due to irregularities along the wall. When using the Columbia adhesives it is not necessary to roll the floor.

Clean Up

When using the Columbia Flooring Urethane Adhesive clean as you go along. Urethane Adhesive that has cured on the surface of the flooring can be difficult to remove and will require the use of Columbia Urethane Remover. The Columbia Urethane Remover has been recommended is safe for the finish of your pre-finished wood floor. Once the floor is completed, clean the flooring with Columbia Flooring Cleaner.

When using Columbia Gator Glue use a cloth dampened with water to clean as you go. If the adhesive has cured on the surface of the flooring, dampen a cloth with mineral spirits to remove the adhesive, then clean with the Columbia Flooring Cleaner.

When the Columbia Flooring Urethane Adhesive is used, light foot traffic is allowed after 12 hours but wait 24 hours after installation to remove the 3M Blue Masking Tape. Once the tape is removed, clean any adhesive residue left from the tape with Adhesive Towels. If Gator Glue is used, walk the floor every two hours during installation to inspect the quality of workmanship being performed. Look for any adhesive on the surface of the flooring. Try to prevent the adhesive from curing on the surface of the pre-finished floor. Also, ensure sides and ends of the flooring are fit together snugly. While these tasks are being completed the floor is considered �rolled� and proper contact is achieved. However after installation it is still best not to allow light foot traffic until 12 hours after installation.

After completing the installation wedge the flooring so that it remains tight during the drying process (due to irregularities in the walls). Once the adhesive has cured, remove and discard the wedges.

STAPLE OR NAIL DOWN INSTALLATIONS

These Engineered hardwood floors may be installed over wood subfloors using staples or nailing cleats.
When installing Columbia engineered wood planks or by nailing or stapling, it is necessary to use the proper type of flooring stapler or nailer made for Columbia Engineered Wood Floors.

Recommended Staplers and Nailers

We have tested and recommend the Bostitch Floor Runner (S3297-LHF-2). The recommended staple for the Bostitch Floor Runner is their 1� staple (SB97-1G). We have tested and recommend the Power Nailer � #200 and #250 nailer using a 1�,
1-1/4�or 1�� power cleat. You must use the 3/8� or �� adapter, as appropriate.

Caution: We have tested the above-recommended tools. Other staplers, staples, nailers and cleats may work as well; however, since they are not currently recommended, if their use damages or fails to properly secure the flooring, the responsibility is the installer�s and not the manufacturers.

Step 1
You must staple or nail 1� � 2� from the ends and every 4� � 6� along the edges. This will help insure a satisfactory installation. It is best to set the compressor PSI at 80 - 85lbs. to keep the staples from going through or breaking the tongues.
Improper stapling techniques can cause squeaks in the floor.
Adjustments may be necessary to provide adequate penetration of the nail or staple into the nail bed. You want it flush in the nail pocket. Use a scrap piece of flooring material to set tools properly before installation.
Before installation of the engineered flooring begins, install a 6- mil polyethylene layer over the subfloor. This will retard moisture from below and may help prevent squeaks. Keep in mind there is no complete moisture barrier system for staple or nail down installations.

Note: 15 lb roofing felt or resin paper may be substituted for the polyethylene and installed as below.

Installing 6 mil Polyethylene

Install the polyethylene parallel to the direction of the flooring and allow a 3� over run at the perimeter. Make sure each run of polyethylene overlaps the previous run by 6� or more.

Layout the job

Measure out from the ends of your starting wall, 2�� when installing 2�� strip flooring or 3�� when installing 3� planks and mark both ends. Where possible, lay the flooring at 90o angles to the floor joists. Make a chalk line along the starting wall using the marks you made (See Figure 7).

Beginning installation

Place the planks with the tongue facing away from the wall and along your chalk line. Use brads or small finishing nails to secure the first starter row along the wall edge 1� � 2� from the ends and every 4� � 6� along the side. Counter sink the nails and fill with the filler that blends with the flooring installed. Place the nails in a dark grain spot in the board. The base or shoe molding will cover the nails when installed, after completion of the installation.

Blind nail at a 45o angle through the tongue (See Figure 8). It
will be easier IF YOU PRE-DRILL THE HOLES IN THE TONGUE.
Nail 1� � 2� from the ends and every 4� � 6� along the sides.
It will be necessary to blind nail the next 2 rows. A Stanley BT35 brad nailer with 1�-1-/38� brads can also be used to blind nail and no predrilling is needed.
Continue the installation using the recommended engineered wood flooring stapler or nailer, using staples or nailer cleats recommended by Columbia Flooring. Nail or staple the flooring 1� � 2� from the end and every 4� � 6� along the edge tongue.

Final Touches

Install the proper trim molding at the doorways to achieve the transition and along the walls to cover the edges of any gaps along the wall due to irregularity. Complete the job by using filler that blends with the installed flooring to fill any gapping along the joints and clean the finished floor with Columbia Flooring Cleaner.